If you’ve ever tried to replace rubber tracks for an excavator, skid-steer, compact track loader, or any other heavy machinery, you know how frustrating it is to order the wrong ones. As someone who’s run a rubber tracks supplier for over 12 years, I’ve heard every horror story: contractors showing up to a job site half an hour from town with tracks that are 2 inches too narrow, a landscaper whose new tracks won’t fit their older Toro loader, and a farmer who wasted $1,800 on tracks that were compatible with their neighbor’s machine, not theirs. The good news? Ordering the correct rubber tracks online isn’t guesswork—it’s just a matter of following a few simple, science-backed steps. I’ve walked thousands of customers through this process, and today I’m breaking down exactly what you need to do to get it right on the first try. Rubber Tracks
First and foremost, let’s talk about the single most important piece of info you’ll need: your machinery’s model number and serial number. A lot of people skip this step and just search for “skid-steer rubber tracks for sale” on Google, which is like walking into a hardware store and saying “I need a hammer.” Sure, you’ll get a hammer, but not the one you need to hang a kitchen cabinet or a shingled roof. Every reputable rubber tracks supplier will tell you that model and serial numbers are non-negotiable for a reason. Models can have subtle, easy-to-miss design changes: a 2018 Bobcat T770, for example, has a different track pitch than a 2022 Bobcat T770, even though at first glance they look identical. Serial numbers tell us exactly when your machine was manufactured, which means we can pull the exact track specs built for that unit straight from the original equipment manufacturer (OEM) blueprints. I once had a customer send us a photo of their skid-steer and say “it’s a John Deere 320,” which works for most parts, but the 2005 John Deere 320 has a 3.5-inch pitch track, while the 2008 upgrade has a 4-inch pitch. Without the serial number, we almost sent the wrong tracks, and that would’ve cost them a day’s work and extra shipping fees to return. If you can’t find your serial number, it’s usually located on a metal plate on the frame, inside the cabin door, or near the engine block—just type “where is the serial number on my [machine type] [model]” into Google, and you’ll find a guide in 2 minutes flat.
Once you have your model and serial number confirmed, the next step is to understand the core specs that define a rubber track, and this is where a lot of new buyers mix up terms like pitch, width, and link count. Let’s break these down simply, no jargon required. The width is exactly what it sounds like: how wide the track is, measured from one outer edge to the other. This is usually listed in inches or millimeters, and it’s critical because a track that’s even a quarter-inch too wide won’t fit between the wheels of your machine, while a track that’s too narrow will slide around and cause premature wear on the sprockets and rollers. Next is the pitch, which is the distance between the center of one metal link pin on the track to the center of the next. Pitch is measured in inches, common sizes are 3 inches, 3.5 inches, 4 inches, and 5 inches for heavy equipment. You can’t mix pitches—trying to put a 3.5-inch pitch track on a machine built for 4-inch pitch is like putting a 33-inch tire on a wheel made for 35-inch tires; it won’t line up with the sprockets and will skip off the machine the second you hit a patch of mud or gravel. The third key spec is the number of links, which is how many individual rubber links make up the full track. This works hand in hand with pitch: if you know your pitch, the circumference of the track will be consistent enough that the link count will match the exact length your machine needs. For example, a 15-inch wide, 3.5-inch pitch track for a Kubota KX057 compact excavator will have 44 links, every time, for that exact model and serial number.
Wait a second, you might be thinking—what if I have old tracks off my machine? Can I just measure those instead? That’s a totally valid backup plan, and it works great as long as your old tracks aren’t too worn down. Here’s how to measure correctly, because if your tracks are stretched out from years of use, a quick tape measure will give you a wrong number. First, remove one track from your machine (most small tracks come off in 10 minutes with a wrench, no special tools needed) and lay it flat on the ground, making sure there’s no slack, stretched, or twisted sections. For width, measure from the very top of the outer rubber to the other side—don’t measure the inner gap, that’s not the track width. For pitch, measure the distance between the center of one metal pin to the center of the next, and measure a few pins to be sure, in case one is worn slightly. For link count, count every individual rubber piece that has a metal pin—start at one end and count all the way to the other. Just a pro tip: if your old tracks are more than 5 years old, or have visible cracks, stretched rubber, or bent metal pins, skip measuring them and stick to the model and serial number method. Wear and tear will have changed their specs, so you’ll still end up with the wrong size.
Now that you have all the specs, it’s time to order online, and this is where a lot of buyers get confused by the wide range of options: OEM tracks vs. aftermarket tracks, steel cords vs. nylon cords, deep lugs for mud vs. shallow lugs for pavement. Let’s talk about this, because not all rubber tracks are created equal, and as a supplier, I’d never steer you toward something that’s not right for your job. First, OEM tracks are made by the same company that built your machine, and they’ll always fit perfectly, but they’re usually 2 to 3 times more expensive than aftermarket options, and in my experience, the quality difference is negligible for most work. Aftermarket tracks have come a long way in the last 10 years—most reputable suppliers, like ours, use the same grade of natural rubber and steel cords that OEMs use, and we test every batch for durability, so they will perform the same as OEM tracks for 90% of jobs. The real difference is in the reinforcement: some tracks use steel cords running through the rubber for extra strength, which is great for heavy excavators used in demolition or digging through rock, while others use nylon cords, which are more flexible and lighter, perfect for skid-steers used on landscaping or lawn work where you don’t want to damage delicate surfaces. Lugs are another big one: deep, rugged lugs (usually called “mud lugs”) have tall, thick rubber that gives you traction in soft mud, snow, or rough construction sites, but they wear down faster on hard pavement. Shallow, low lugs (“pavement lugs”) last 2 to 3 times longer when you’re driving on asphalt or concrete all day, but they’ll slip in deep mud. So before you order, think about what you’ll use the machine for 80% of the time. If you’re half landscaping and half digging, a mid-height lug is a happy medium that works well for both.
Something I wish every customer knew before ordering: check the shipping and return policies before you click “buy.” This is the part where bad suppliers make you regret your purchase, as I’ve had customers get stuck with 1,000-pound tracks that cost $500 to ship back because the supplier didn’t offer free returns for wrong orders. Reputable rubber tracks suppliers will have a clear policy: if you order the wrong tracks because of their mistake, they’ll cover return shipping and send you the correct ones for free. If you ordered the wrong specs on your own, most will charge a small restocking fee (usually 10% of the track price) to cover the cost of handling, but they’ll still work with you to exchange them, instead of making you pay for a whole new set. Also, watch for suppliers that only give you a generic size and don’t ask for your model or serial number— that’s a red flag. If they don’t need your exact machine info, they’re probably cutting corners on quality, using tracks that fit multiple machines but aren’t custom-built for yours, which will wear out 50% faster. I once had a customer order tracks from a big-box online retailer that listed a 15×3.5×44 track as universal, and when they put them on their Kubota excavator, they kept slipping off the rollers because they didn’t have the right inner guide pattern that matches Kubota’s wheel design. That’s the kind of issue you avoid when you order from a supplier who takes the time to verify your machine’s exact specs.
Wait, let’s address a common question I get all the time: “Can I use different brand tracks on my machine?” The short answer is yes, as long as the specs match. If you order a track that’s the exact same width, pitch, link count, and inner guide pattern, it will fit, no matter the brand. We supply tracks for all major machinery brands, from Caterpillar and John Deere to Bobcat and Kubota, and as long as the specs line up, our tracks work just as well as any other top brand. The only time you can’t mix brands is if you buy a “specialty” track that’s built for a specific machine’s unique design, like tracks with ice cleats for snow removal, but those will list the exact machine model anyway.
Let’s run through a real example to make this concrete, because I know it’s easy to get lost in the numbers. Say you have a 2019 Caterpillar 259D3 skid-steer used mostly for landscaping, so you need shallow pavement lugs. First, you find your serial number on the frame: CAT259D3XXXXXXX. You send that (or enter it on the supplier’s website) and pull the specs: 18 inches wide, 4-inch pitch, 42 links. You confirm that, and since you mostly drive on pavement, you select the nylon-reinforced, shallow lug aftermarket tracks. That’s it—no guesswork, no measuring old worn tracks, no chance of ordering the wrong size. In the 12 years I’ve been doing this, 9 out of 10 customers who follow this method get their tracks right on the first try. The only exceptions are when a machine has been modified, like after-market wheels or a custom frame change, and in that case, a quick photo of your old tracks or your machine’s undercarriage will help us confirm the specs even if something’s changed.
One last tip that saves customers hundreds of dollars: order a full set (two tracks) at a time. Most suppliers offer a discount when you buy two tracks, and it’s always better to replace both tracks at the same time, even if only one is worn. Tracks wear evenly over time, so if you replace just one, the new track will have a different level of wear than the old one, which will put extra strain on your machine’s drive system, lead to more wear on sprockets and rollers, and even cause damage to the hydraulic system. It’s a small extra cost up front, but it will save you from paying for expensive repairs later. I’ve seen customers try to save $200 by replacing one track, only to have to replace the entire drive motor 6 months later because of the extra stress, which costs $2,000. That’s a no-brainer.
At the end of the day, ordering rubber tracks online is all about accuracy and working with a supplier that cares about getting it right for you. I’ve built my business on the fact that I don’t just sell tracks— I help contractors, farmers, and landscapers keep their machines running, because I know how much downtime costs. If you’re not sure about any step in the process, don’t guess— reach out to the supplier. A good rubber tracks supplier will have a team of experts who can look up your serial number, confirm the specs, and even send photos of the tracks they recommend, so you can be 100% sure before you buy. The worst thing you can do is hit “checkout” with a vague search term or half-measured specs— that’s how you end up with tracks that don’t fit, a delayed job, and wasted money. If you’re ready to order, or just have questions about your machine’s track needs, don’t hesitate to reach out to our team to start the conversation about the right tracks for your work.
Wheels and Tires References:
- "Rubber Track Specification Guide," Association of Equipment Manufacturers (AEM), 2021.
- "Durability Testing of Aftermarket Rubber Tracks for Compact Construction Equipment," Journal of Construction Equipment Technology, Vol. 8, No. 2, 2022, pp. 45-58.
- "Machine Serial Number Location and Identification," Equipment World Buyer’s Guide, 14th Edition, 2023.
- "Best Practices for Rubber Track Installation and Maintenance," National Landscape Association, 2022.
L-Guard Group Limited
As one of the most professional rubber tracks manufacturers and suppliers in China, we have world-leading production equipment and strong manufacturing capabilities. Please rest assured to buy high quality rubber tracks made in China here from our factory. Contact us for more details.
Address: Room B-2302, Guohua Building. No.2 Minjiang Road, Qingdao, China
E-mail: info@l-guard.com
WebSite: https://www.lguardcorp.com/
